I have one bad display on a Williams Gorgar. When that display is
plugged in, two displays lose one segment. It is always that display and
one other no matter where I have it plugged in.
The display board has nothing in them except the display itself. I have cleaned and inspected the contacts and do not see a problem.
Is there anything I can do to fix this display or troubleshoot further?>
If not, what is my next best option? Troll for a used display? Or
look for LED? It looks like I cannot purchase just one LED?
On 2020/04/05 9:40 a.m., LexingtonVAPin wrote:
I have one bad display on a Williams Gorgar. When that display is
plugged in, two displays lose one segment. It is always that display
and one other no matter where I have it plugged in.
The display board has nothing in them except the display itself. I
have cleaned and inspected the contacts and do not see a problem.
Is there anything I can do to fix this display or troubleshoot further?
If not, what is my next best option? Troll for a used display? Or
look for LED? It looks like I cannot purchase just one LED?
The display in question has a short between two pins, usually just under
the glass where the leads go in between the layers of glass...
You may have success scrapping (using a dental style stainless steel
pick) between the traces, and then seal with some corona dope (high
voltage sealant) if successful. However that only works rarely - I think
you want a new glass display.
As far as I know - no one has (as yet) made a replacement LED display
that will replace a plasma tube. I think it could happen, but I have
enough projects.
John :-#)#
I saw a guy at Allentown that had a kit to convert a Bally display board
to host an LED display. But I have never seen anything similar for Williams. Considering the electronics are on the main board, I would
think this is unlikely.
With a single plasma tube running $70, it does not make sense to replace
it.
I have one bad display on a Williams Gorgar. When that display is
plugged in, two displays lose one segment. It is always that display and
one other no matter where I have it plugged in.
The display board has nothing in them except the display itself. I have cleaned and inspected the contacts and do not see a problem.
Is there anything I can do to fix this display or troubleshoot further?
If not, what is my next best option? Troll for a used display? Or
look for LED? It looks like I cannot purchase just one LED?
--
http://orcalcoast.com/
LexingtonVAPin wrote:
I saw a guy at Allentown that had a kit to convert a Bally display
board to host an LED display. But I have never seen anything similar
for Williams. Considering the electronics are on the main board, I
would think this is unlikely.
With a single plasma tube running $70, it does not make sense to
replace it.
https://www.wolffpactech.com/product-page/williams-system-3-6-display-kit-orange-digits
replace all 5 and keep the spares for the other games in the museum.
On 4/5/20 6:37 PM, seymour.shabow wrote:
LexingtonVAPin wrote:
I saw a guy at Allentown that had a kit to convert a Bally display
board to host an LED display. But I have never seen anything similar
for Williams. Considering the electronics are on the main board, I
would think this is unlikely.
With a single plasma tube running $70, it does not make sense to
replace it.
https://www.wolffpactech.com/product-page/williams-system-3-6-display-kit-orange-digits
replace all 5 and keep the spares for the other games in the museum.
Thanks Scott.
Unfortunately, this is my personal game. But I could keep the others as spares. I only have one other Williams 3 - 6 pin currently in my > collection.
I have used those Wolffpac products before in Bally pins and like them.>
It looks like I should have unplugged that one display. Now the segment missing is permanent in those two positions. Visually, it looks like a fried resistor in the master. Stupid of me. I hope it is that simple of a fix.
On Sunday, April 5, 2020 at 11:40:25 AM UTC-5, LexingtonVAPin wrote:
I have one bad display on a Williams Gorgar. When that display is
plugged in, two displays lose one segment. It is always that display and
one other no matter where I have it plugged in.
The display board has nothing in them except the display itself. I have
cleaned and inspected the contacts and do not see a problem.
Is there anything I can do to fix this display or troubleshoot further?
If not, what is my next best option? Troll for a used display? Or
look for LED? It looks like I cannot purchase just one LED?
--
http://orcalcoast.com/
I have good working system 6 slave displays for $35 shipped each in the US.
On Sunday, April 5, 2020 at 11:40:25 AM UTC-5, LexingtonVAPin wrote:
I have one bad display on a Williams Gorgar. When that display is
plugged in, two displays lose one segment. It is always that display and one other no matter where I have it plugged in.
The display board has nothing in them except the display itself. I have cleaned and inspected the contacts and do not see a problem.
Is there anything I can do to fix this display or troubleshoot further?
If not, what is my next best option? Troll for a used display? Or
look for LED? It looks like I cannot purchase just one LED?
--
http://orcalcoast.com/
I have good working system 6 slave displays for $35 shipped each in the US.
On Sunday, April 5, 2020 at 11:11:53 PM UTC-4, Russ Schilling wrote:
On Sunday, April 5, 2020 at 11:40:25 AM UTC-5, LexingtonVAPin wrote:
I have one bad display on a Williams Gorgar. When that display is
plugged in, two displays lose one segment. It is always that display and >>> one other no matter where I have it plugged in.
The display board has nothing in them except the display itself. I have >>> cleaned and inspected the contacts and do not see a problem.
Is there anything I can do to fix this display or troubleshoot further?
If not, what is my next best option? Troll for a used display? Or
look for LED? It looks like I cannot purchase just one LED?
--
http://orcalcoast.com/
I have good working system 6 slave displays for $35 shipped each in the US.
I could use six of those displays.
I have one bad display on a Williams Gorgar. When that display is
plugged in, two displays lose one segment. It is always that display and
one other no matter where I have it plugged in.
The display board has nothing in them except the display itself. I have cleaned and inspected the contacts and do not see a problem.
Is there anything I can do to fix this display or troubleshoot further?
If not, what is my next best option? Troll for a used display? Or
look for LED? It looks like I cannot purchase just one LED?
--
http://orcalcoast.com/
----- Synchronet 3.17c-Win32 NewsLink 1.112
http://orcalcoast.com/
Remove the display and isolate the pins that are shorted together. If scraping with a dental tool does not clear the short, I have had some success with burning open a short using a lab supply and current control. Set the voltage to below the normal working voltage with your current limit set to zero. Connect your leads and start turning up the current limiter. You should see the current go up, and then as the short burns open, the current will drop. When that happens, reconnect the display and test it out. If you are lucky, the shorted bridge will now be open and your display will work. If it does not, then an internal trace may have burned open before the "short" and your display is not salvageable.
--
http://orcalcoast.com/
Remove the display and isolate the pins that are shorted together. If scraping with a dental tool does not clear the short, I have had some success with burning open a short using a lab supply and current control. Set the voltage to below the normal working voltage with your current limit set to zero. Connect your leads and start turning up the current limiter. You should see the current go up, and then as the short burns open, the current will drop. When that happens, reconnect the display and test it out. If you are lucky, the shorted bridge will now be open and your display will work. If it does not, then an internal trace may have burned open before the "short" and your display is not salvageable.
--
http://orcalcoast.com/
On 4/12/20 7:23 PM, MAC in Indiana wrote:
Remove the display and isolate the pins that are shorted together. If
scraping with a dental tool does not clear the short, I have had some
success with burning open a short using a lab supply and current
control. Set the voltage to below the normal working voltage with your
current limit set to zero. Connect your leads and start turning up the
current limiter. You should see the current go up, and then as the
short burns open, the current will drop. When that happens, reconnect
the display and test it out. If you are lucky, the shorted bridge will
now be open and your display will work. If it does not, then an
internal trace may have burned open before the "short" and your
display is not salvageable.
--
http://orcalcoast.com/
That is a great idea.
Thanks for the suggestion.
On 2020/04/14 12:58 p.m., LexingtonVAPin wrote:
On 4/12/20 7:23 PM, MAC in Indiana wrote:
Remove the display and isolate the pins that are shorted together. If
scraping with a dental tool does not clear the short, I have had some
success with burning open a short using a lab supply and current
control. Set the voltage to below the normal working voltage with
your current limit set to zero. Connect your leads and start turning
up the current limiter. You should see the current go up, and then as
the short burns open, the current will drop. When that happens,
reconnect the display and test it out. If you are lucky, the shorted
bridge will now be open and your display will work. If it does not,
then an internal trace may have burned open before the "short" and
your display is not salvageable.
--
http://orcalcoast.com/
That is a great idea.
Thanks for the suggestion.
This fix only works for displays that are not in-circuit! You need to unsolder the leads that have the short otherwise you may damage the
driver IC/transistor(s). Or remove the at risk semiconductor(s) before attempting this...
John :-#(#
On 4/14/20 4:15 PM, John Robertson wrote:
On 2020/04/14 12:58 p.m., LexingtonVAPin wrote:Thanks John.
On 4/12/20 7:23 PM, MAC in Indiana wrote:
Remove the display and isolate the pins that are shorted together.
If scraping with a dental tool does not clear the short, I have had >>>> some success with burning open a short using a lab supply and
current control. Set the voltage to below the normal working voltage
with your current limit set to zero. Connect your leads and start
turning up the current limiter. You should see the current go up,
and then as the short burns open, the current will drop. When that
happens, reconnect the display and test it out. If you are lucky,
the shorted bridge will now be open and your display will work. If
it does not, then an internal trace may have burned open before the >>>> "short" and your display is not salvageable.
--
http://orcalcoast.com/
That is a great idea.
Thanks for the suggestion.
This fix only works for displays that are not in-circuit! You need to >> unsolder the leads that have the short otherwise you may damage the
driver IC/transistor(s). Or remove the at risk semiconductor(s) before
attempting this...
John :-#(#
This is for one of the slaves that does not have any circuitry. But
your warning is important for those that may read this post.
On 2020/04/14 3:55 p.m., LexingtonVAPin wrote:
On 4/14/20 4:15 PM, John Robertson wrote:
On 2020/04/14 12:58 p.m., LexingtonVAPin wrote:Thanks John.
On 4/12/20 7:23 PM, MAC in Indiana wrote:
Remove the display and isolate the pins that are shorted together.
If scraping with a dental tool does not clear the short, I have had >>>> some success with burning open a short using a lab supply and
current control. Set the voltage to below the normal working voltage >>>> with your current limit set to zero. Connect your leads and start
turning up the current limiter. You should see the current go up,
and then as the short burns open, the current will drop. When that
happens, reconnect the display and test it out. If you are lucky,
the shorted bridge will now be open and your display will work. If
it does not, then an internal trace may have burned open before the >>>> "short" and your display is not salvageable.
--
http://orcalcoast.com/
That is a great idea.
Thanks for the suggestion.
This fix only works for displays that are not in-circuit! You need to
unsolder the leads that have the short otherwise you may damage the
driver IC/transistor(s). Or remove the at risk semiconductor(s) before
attempting this...
John :-#(#
This is for one of the slaves that does not have any circuitry. But
your warning is important for those that may read this post.
I find it never hurts to state the seemingly obvious - I know thatHey Lex,
people years from now will run across this series of posts. That thought
is always in the background of my posts - trying to teach future enthusiasts!
John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
On Tuesday, April 14, 2020 at 9:36:23 PM UTC-4, John Robertson wrote:
On 2020/04/14 3:55 p.m., LexingtonVAPin wrote:
On 4/14/20 4:15 PM, John Robertson wrote:
On 2020/04/14 12:58 p.m., LexingtonVAPin wrote:Thanks John.
On 4/12/20 7:23 PM, MAC in Indiana wrote:
Remove the display and isolate the pins that are shorted together. >>>>>> If scraping with a dental tool does not clear the short, I have had >>>>>> some success with burning open a short using a lab supply and
current control. Set the voltage to below the normal working voltage >>>>>> with your current limit set to zero. Connect your leads and start
turning up the current limiter. You should see the current go up,
and then as the short burns open, the current will drop. When that >>>>>> happens, reconnect the display and test it out. If you are lucky,
the shorted bridge will now be open and your display will work. If >>>>>> it does not, then an internal trace may have burned open before the >>>>>> "short" and your display is not salvageable.
--
http://orcalcoast.com/
That is a great idea.
Thanks for the suggestion.
This fix only works for displays that are not in-circuit! You need to
unsolder the leads that have the short otherwise you may damage the
driver IC/transistor(s). Or remove the at risk semiconductor(s) before >>>> attempting this...
John :-#(#
This is for one of the slaves that does not have any circuitry. But
your warning is important for those that may read this post.
I find it never hurts to state the seemingly obvious - I know that
people years from now will run across this series of posts. That thought
is always in the background of my posts - trying to teach future
enthusiasts!
John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
Hey Lex,
I just updated a system 3 shuffle alley with LED displays & I have 3 known good displays & the working master display.
If you think any of this will help you I'd be happy to mail you what you need ?
Pin-Del,
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