• Tech: Williams Sys 6 Display

    From LexingtonVAPin@lhammer610@yahoo.com to rec.games.pinball on Sunday, April 05, 2020 12:40:18
    From Newsgroup: rec.games.pinball

    I have one bad display on a Williams Gorgar. When that display is
    plugged in, two displays lose one segment. It is always that display and
    one other no matter where I have it plugged in.

    The display board has nothing in them except the display itself. I have cleaned and inspected the contacts and do not see a problem.

    Is there anything I can do to fix this display or troubleshoot further?

    If not, what is my next best option? Troll for a used display? Or
    look for LED? It looks like I cannot purchase just one LED?

    --
    http://orcalcoast.com/
    --- Synchronet 3.17c-Win32 NewsLink 1.112
  • From John Robertson@spam@flippers.com to rec.games.pinball on Sunday, April 05, 2020 12:21:41
    From Newsgroup: rec.games.pinball

    On 2020/04/05 9:40 a.m., LexingtonVAPin wrote:
    I have one bad display on a Williams Gorgar.  When that display is
    plugged in, two displays lose one segment. It is always that display and
    one other no matter where I have it plugged in.

    The display board has nothing in them except the display itself.  I have cleaned and inspected the contacts and do not see a problem.

    Is there anything I can do to fix this display or troubleshoot further?>
    If not, what is my next best option?   Troll for a used display?  Or
    look for LED?  It looks like I cannot purchase just one LED?

    The display in question has a short between two pins, usually just under the glass where the leads go in between the layers of glass...
    You may have success scrapping (using a dental style stainless steel
    pick) between the traces, and then seal with some corona dope (high
    voltage sealant) if successful. However that only works rarely - I think you want a new glass display.
    As far as I know - no one has (as yet) made a replacement LED display
    that will replace a plasma tube. I think it could happen, but I have
    enough projects.
    John :-#)#
    --
    (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
    John's Jukes Ltd.
    MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
    (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
    www.flippers.com
    "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
    --- Synchronet 3.17c-Win32 NewsLink 1.112
  • From LexingtonVAPin@lhammer610@yahoo.com to rec.games.pinball on Sunday, April 05, 2020 16:40:45
    From Newsgroup: rec.games.pinball

    On 4/5/20 3:21 PM, John Robertson wrote:
    On 2020/04/05 9:40 a.m., LexingtonVAPin wrote:
    I have one bad display on a Williams Gorgar.  When that display is
    plugged in, two displays lose one segment. It is always that display
    and one other no matter where I have it plugged in.

    The display board has nothing in them except the display itself.  I
    have cleaned and inspected the contacts and do not see a problem.

    Is there anything I can do to fix this display or troubleshoot further?

    If not, what is my next best option?   Troll for a used display?  Or
    look for LED?  It looks like I cannot purchase just one LED?


    The display in question has a short between two pins, usually just under
    the glass where the leads go in between the layers of glass...

    You may have success scrapping (using a dental style stainless steel
    pick) between the traces, and then seal with some corona dope (high
    voltage sealant) if successful. However that only works rarely - I think
    you want a new glass display.

    As far as I know - no one has (as yet) made a replacement LED display
    that will replace a plasma tube. I think it could happen, but I have
    enough projects.

    John :-#)#


    The segment that is out is segment 'e' which is the lower left vertical
    line (as identified in Bally literature - is this consistent with
    Williams?). That would be pin 4. That is between '100,000' and 'd'. I
    know what 'd' is, but not sure I understand what '100,000' is.

    I saw a guy at Allentown that had a kit to convert a Bally display board
    to host an LED display. But I have never seen anything similar for
    Williams. Considering the electronics are on the main board, I would
    think this is unlikely.

    With a single plasma tube running $70, it does not make sense to replace it.

    --
    http://orcalcoast.com/
    --- Synchronet 3.17c-Win32 NewsLink 1.112
  • From seymour.shabow@seymour.shabow@gmail.com to rec.games.pinball on Sunday, April 05, 2020 18:37:31
    From Newsgroup: rec.games.pinball

    LexingtonVAPin wrote:

    I saw a guy at Allentown that had a kit to convert a Bally display board
    to host an LED display. But I have never seen anything similar for Williams. Considering the electronics are on the main board, I would
    think this is unlikely.

    With a single plasma tube running $70, it does not make sense to replace
    it.


    https://www.wolffpactech.com/product-page/williams-system-3-6-display-kit-orange-digits

    replace all 5 and keep the spares for the other games in the museum.
    --- Synchronet 3.17c-Win32 NewsLink 1.112
  • From Russ Schilling@russschilling@gmail.com to rec.games.pinball on Sunday, April 05, 2020 20:11:47
    From Newsgroup: rec.games.pinball

    On Sunday, April 5, 2020 at 11:40:25 AM UTC-5, LexingtonVAPin wrote:
    I have one bad display on a Williams Gorgar. When that display is
    plugged in, two displays lose one segment. It is always that display and
    one other no matter where I have it plugged in.

    The display board has nothing in them except the display itself. I have cleaned and inspected the contacts and do not see a problem.

    Is there anything I can do to fix this display or troubleshoot further?

    If not, what is my next best option? Troll for a used display? Or
    look for LED? It looks like I cannot purchase just one LED?

    --
    http://orcalcoast.com/

    I have good working system 6 slave displays for $35 shipped each in the US. --- Synchronet 3.17c-Win32 NewsLink 1.112
  • From LexingtonVAPin@lhammer610@yahoo.com to rec.games.pinball on Monday, April 06, 2020 09:49:30
    From Newsgroup: rec.games.pinball

    On 4/5/20 6:37 PM, seymour.shabow wrote:
    LexingtonVAPin wrote:

    I saw a guy at Allentown that had a kit to convert a Bally display
    board to host an LED display.  But I have never seen anything similar
    for Williams.  Considering the electronics are on the main board, I
    would think this is unlikely.

    With a single plasma tube running $70, it does not make sense to
    replace it.


    https://www.wolffpactech.com/product-page/williams-system-3-6-display-kit-orange-digits


    replace all 5 and keep the spares for the other games in the museum.

    Thanks Scott.

    Unfortunately, this is my personal game. But I could keep the others as spares. I only have one other Williams 3 - 6 pin currently in my
    collection.

    I have used those Wolffpac products before in Bally pins and like them.

    It looks like I should have unplugged that one display. Now the segment missing is permanent in those two positions. Visually, it looks like a
    fried resistor in the master. Stupid of me. I hope it is that simple
    of a fix.

    --
    http://orcalcoast.com/
    --- Synchronet 3.17c-Win32 NewsLink 1.112
  • From John Robertson@spam@flippers.com to rec.games.pinball on Monday, April 06, 2020 08:57:31
    From Newsgroup: rec.games.pinball

    On 2020/04/06 6:49 a.m., LexingtonVAPin wrote:
    On 4/5/20 6:37 PM, seymour.shabow wrote:
    LexingtonVAPin wrote:

    I saw a guy at Allentown that had a kit to convert a Bally display
    board to host an LED display.  But I have never seen anything similar
    for Williams.  Considering the electronics are on the main board, I
    would think this is unlikely.

    With a single plasma tube running $70, it does not make sense to
    replace it.


    https://www.wolffpactech.com/product-page/williams-system-3-6-display-kit-orange-digits


    replace all 5 and keep the spares for the other games in the museum.

    Thanks Scott.

    Unfortunately, this is my personal game.  But I could keep the others as spares.  I only have one other Williams 3 - 6 pin currently in my > collection.

    I have used those Wolffpac products before in Bally pins and like them.>
    It looks like I should have unplugged that one display.  Now the segment missing is permanent in those two positions.  Visually, it looks like a fried resistor in the master.   Stupid of me.  I hope it is that simple of a fix.

    That fix is usually the only failure, replace the burnt resistor with a flameproof version, same wattage.
    If the segment still doesn't light up, and the bad tube was unplugged,
    then your driver IC is likely damaged...
    John :-#)#
    --
    (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
    John's Jukes Ltd.
    MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
    (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
    www.flippers.com
    "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
    --- Synchronet 3.17c-Win32 NewsLink 1.112
  • From John Robertson@spam@flippers.com to rec.games.pinball on Monday, April 06, 2020 08:58:32
    From Newsgroup: rec.games.pinball

    On 2020/04/05 8:11 p.m., Russ Schilling wrote:
    On Sunday, April 5, 2020 at 11:40:25 AM UTC-5, LexingtonVAPin wrote:
    I have one bad display on a Williams Gorgar. When that display is
    plugged in, two displays lose one segment. It is always that display and
    one other no matter where I have it plugged in.

    The display board has nothing in them except the display itself. I have
    cleaned and inspected the contacts and do not see a problem.

    Is there anything I can do to fix this display or troubleshoot further?

    If not, what is my next best option? Troll for a used display? Or
    look for LED? It looks like I cannot purchase just one LED?

    --
    http://orcalcoast.com/

    I have good working system 6 slave displays for $35 shipped each in the US.


    That is a very good price!

    John :-#)#

    --
    (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
    John's Jukes Ltd.
    MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
    (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
    www.flippers.com
    "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
    --- Synchronet 3.17c-Win32 NewsLink 1.112
  • From Tolleymike@tolleymike@hotmail.com to rec.games.pinball on Tuesday, April 07, 2020 07:57:50
    From Newsgroup: rec.games.pinball

    On Sunday, April 5, 2020 at 11:11:53 PM UTC-4, Russ Schilling wrote:
    On Sunday, April 5, 2020 at 11:40:25 AM UTC-5, LexingtonVAPin wrote:
    I have one bad display on a Williams Gorgar. When that display is
    plugged in, two displays lose one segment. It is always that display and one other no matter where I have it plugged in.

    The display board has nothing in them except the display itself. I have cleaned and inspected the contacts and do not see a problem.

    Is there anything I can do to fix this display or troubleshoot further?

    If not, what is my next best option? Troll for a used display? Or
    look for LED? It looks like I cannot purchase just one LED?

    --
    http://orcalcoast.com/

    I have good working system 6 slave displays for $35 shipped each in the US.

    I could use six of those displays.
    --- Synchronet 3.17c-Win32 NewsLink 1.112
  • From LexingtonVAPin@lhammer610@yahoo.com to rec.games.pinball on Tuesday, April 07, 2020 11:48:53
    From Newsgroup: rec.games.pinball

    On 4/7/20 10:57 AM, Tolleymike wrote:
    On Sunday, April 5, 2020 at 11:11:53 PM UTC-4, Russ Schilling wrote:
    On Sunday, April 5, 2020 at 11:40:25 AM UTC-5, LexingtonVAPin wrote:
    I have one bad display on a Williams Gorgar. When that display is
    plugged in, two displays lose one segment. It is always that display and >>> one other no matter where I have it plugged in.

    The display board has nothing in them except the display itself. I have >>> cleaned and inspected the contacts and do not see a problem.

    Is there anything I can do to fix this display or troubleshoot further?

    If not, what is my next best option? Troll for a used display? Or
    look for LED? It looks like I cannot purchase just one LED?

    --
    http://orcalcoast.com/

    I have good working system 6 slave displays for $35 shipped each in the US.

    I could use six of those displays.


    Hey Mike! Neighbor? :-)

    I guess I snooze I lose. I have not figured out what I am going to do.
    I only need one at the moment. And $105 for the Wolffpac LED which is 4 displays and a master seems like a deal.

    Thanks Russ for the offer. I appreciate it. If Mike wants them, go
    ahead.

    Take care everyone and be safe.

    --
    http://orcalcoast.com/
    --- Synchronet 3.17c-Win32 NewsLink 1.112
  • From Russ Schilling@russschilling@gmail.com to rec.games.pinball on Tuesday, April 07, 2020 19:07:00
    From Newsgroup: rec.games.pinball

    On Sunday, April 5, 2020 at 11:40:25 AM UTC-5, LexingtonVAPin wrote:
    I have one bad display on a Williams Gorgar. When that display is
    plugged in, two displays lose one segment. It is always that display and
    one other no matter where I have it plugged in.

    The display board has nothing in them except the display itself. I have cleaned and inspected the contacts and do not see a problem.

    Is there anything I can do to fix this display or troubleshoot further?

    If not, what is my next best option? Troll for a used display? Or
    look for LED? It looks like I cannot purchase just one LED?

    --
    http://orcalcoast.com/

    Here are the 9 that I have:

    4 that are very good.
    1 with 1st digit lightly flickering
    1 untested - I sold all my games that I could test in and somehow this one went unmarked
    2 with fuzzy digits
    1 that is flaky across the bottom and disturbs other displays

    all of these are Williams 6 digit slave displays. I sold the masters that I had left last week.
    --- Synchronet 3.17c-Win32 NewsLink 1.112
  • From MAC in Indiana@google@mcwhorters.net to rec.games.pinball on Sunday, April 12, 2020 16:23:14
    From Newsgroup: rec.games.pinball

    Remove the display and isolate the pins that are shorted together. If scraping with a dental tool does not clear the short, I have had some success with burning open a short using a lab supply and current control. Set the voltage to below the normal working voltage with your current limit set to zero. Connect your leads and start turning up the current limiter. You should see the current go up, and then as the short burns open, the current will drop. When that happens, reconnect the display and test it out. If you are lucky, the shorted bridge will now be open and your display will work. If it does not, then an internal trace may have burned open before the "short" and your display is not salvageable.

    --
    http://orcalcoast.com/
    --- Synchronet 3.17c-Win32 NewsLink 1.112
  • From John Robertson@spam@flippers.com to rec.games.pinball on Sunday, April 12, 2020 16:55:39
    From Newsgroup: rec.games.pinball

    On 2020/04/12 4:23 p.m., MAC in Indiana wrote:
    Remove the display and isolate the pins that are shorted together. If scraping with a dental tool does not clear the short, I have had some success with burning open a short using a lab supply and current control. Set the voltage to below the normal working voltage with your current limit set to zero. Connect your leads and start turning up the current limiter. You should see the current go up, and then as the short burns open, the current will drop. When that happens, reconnect the display and test it out. If you are lucky, the shorted bridge will now be open and your display will work. If it does not, then an internal trace may have burned open before the "short" and your display is not salvageable.

    --
    http://orcalcoast.com/


    That is a great tip! All I can add is once you have cleared up the short
    (if successful) then use some HV corona dope to seal it properly... I
    think dust got in the gap and caused the shorting out.

    Thanks again,

    John :-#)#

    --
    (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
    John's Jukes Ltd.
    MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
    (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
    www.flippers.com
    "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
    --- Synchronet 3.17c-Win32 NewsLink 1.112
  • From LexingtonVAPin@lhammer610@yahoo.com to rec.games.pinball on Tuesday, April 14, 2020 15:58:19
    From Newsgroup: rec.games.pinball

    On 4/12/20 7:23 PM, MAC in Indiana wrote:
    Remove the display and isolate the pins that are shorted together. If scraping with a dental tool does not clear the short, I have had some success with burning open a short using a lab supply and current control. Set the voltage to below the normal working voltage with your current limit set to zero. Connect your leads and start turning up the current limiter. You should see the current go up, and then as the short burns open, the current will drop. When that happens, reconnect the display and test it out. If you are lucky, the shorted bridge will now be open and your display will work. If it does not, then an internal trace may have burned open before the "short" and your display is not salvageable.

    --
    http://orcalcoast.com/


    That is a great idea.

    Thanks for the suggestion.

    --
    http://orcalcoast.com/
    --- Synchronet 3.17c-Win32 NewsLink 1.112
  • From John Robertson@spam@flippers.com to rec.games.pinball on Tuesday, April 14, 2020 13:15:44
    From Newsgroup: rec.games.pinball

    On 2020/04/14 12:58 p.m., LexingtonVAPin wrote:
    On 4/12/20 7:23 PM, MAC in Indiana wrote:
    Remove the display and isolate the pins that are shorted together. If
    scraping with a dental tool does not clear the short, I have had some
    success with burning open a short using a lab supply and current
    control. Set the voltage to below the normal working voltage with your
    current limit set to zero. Connect your leads and start turning up the
    current limiter. You should see the current go up, and then as the
    short burns open, the current will drop. When that happens, reconnect
    the display and test it out. If you are lucky, the shorted bridge will
    now be open and your display will work. If it does not, then an
    internal trace may have burned open before the "short" and your
    display is not salvageable.

    --
    http://orcalcoast.com/


    That is a great idea.

    Thanks for the suggestion.


    This fix only works for displays that are not in-circuit! You need to
    unsolder the leads that have the short otherwise you may damage the
    driver IC/transistor(s). Or remove the at risk semiconductor(s) before attempting this...

    John :-#(#

    --
    (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
    John's Jukes Ltd.
    MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
    (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
    www.flippers.com
    "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
    --- Synchronet 3.17c-Win32 NewsLink 1.112
  • From LexingtonVAPin@lhammer610@yahoo.com to rec.games.pinball on Tuesday, April 14, 2020 18:55:02
    From Newsgroup: rec.games.pinball

    On 4/14/20 4:15 PM, John Robertson wrote:
    On 2020/04/14 12:58 p.m., LexingtonVAPin wrote:
    On 4/12/20 7:23 PM, MAC in Indiana wrote:
    Remove the display and isolate the pins that are shorted together. If
    scraping with a dental tool does not clear the short, I have had some
    success with burning open a short using a lab supply and current
    control. Set the voltage to below the normal working voltage with
    your current limit set to zero. Connect your leads and start turning
    up the current limiter. You should see the current go up, and then as
    the short burns open, the current will drop. When that happens,
    reconnect the display and test it out. If you are lucky, the shorted
    bridge will now be open and your display will work. If it does not,
    then an internal trace may have burned open before the "short" and
    your display is not salvageable.

    --
    http://orcalcoast.com/


    That is a great idea.

    Thanks for the suggestion.


    This fix only works for displays that are not in-circuit! You need to unsolder the leads that have the short otherwise you may damage the
    driver IC/transistor(s). Or remove the at risk semiconductor(s) before attempting this...

    John :-#(#

    Thanks John.

    This is for one of the slaves that does not have any circuitry. But
    your warning is important for those that may read this post.

    --
    http://orcalcoast.com/
    --- Synchronet 3.17c-Win32 NewsLink 1.112
  • From John Robertson@spam@flippers.com to rec.games.pinball on Tuesday, April 14, 2020 18:36:13
    From Newsgroup: rec.games.pinball

    On 2020/04/14 3:55 p.m., LexingtonVAPin wrote:
    On 4/14/20 4:15 PM, John Robertson wrote:
    On 2020/04/14 12:58 p.m., LexingtonVAPin wrote:
    On 4/12/20 7:23 PM, MAC in Indiana wrote:
    Remove the display and isolate the pins that are shorted together.
    If scraping with a dental tool does not clear the short, I have had >>>> some success with burning open a short using a lab supply and
    current control. Set the voltage to below the normal working voltage
    with your current limit set to zero. Connect your leads and start
    turning up the current limiter. You should see the current go up,
    and then as the short burns open, the current will drop. When that
    happens, reconnect the display and test it out. If you are lucky,
    the shorted bridge will now be open and your display will work. If
    it does not, then an internal trace may have burned open before the >>>> "short" and your display is not salvageable.

    --
    http://orcalcoast.com/


    That is a great idea.

    Thanks for the suggestion.


    This fix only works for displays that are not in-circuit! You need to >> unsolder the leads that have the short otherwise you may damage the
    driver IC/transistor(s). Or remove the at risk semiconductor(s) before
    attempting this...

    John :-#(#

    Thanks John.

    This is for one of the slaves that does not have any circuitry.  But
    your warning is important for those that may read this post.

    I find it never hurts to state the seemingly obvious - I know that
    people years from now will run across this series of posts. That thought is always in the background of my posts - trying to teach future
    enthusiasts!
    John :-#)#
    --
    (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
    John's Jukes Ltd.
    MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
    (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
    www.flippers.com
    "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
    --- Synchronet 3.17c-Win32 NewsLink 1.112
  • From Pin Del@delmail333@gmail.com to rec.games.pinball on Wednesday, April 15, 2020 14:48:41
    From Newsgroup: rec.games.pinball

    On Tuesday, April 14, 2020 at 9:36:23 PM UTC-4, John Robertson wrote:
    On 2020/04/14 3:55 p.m., LexingtonVAPin wrote:
    On 4/14/20 4:15 PM, John Robertson wrote:
    On 2020/04/14 12:58 p.m., LexingtonVAPin wrote:
    On 4/12/20 7:23 PM, MAC in Indiana wrote:
    Remove the display and isolate the pins that are shorted together.
    If scraping with a dental tool does not clear the short, I have had >>>> some success with burning open a short using a lab supply and
    current control. Set the voltage to below the normal working voltage >>>> with your current limit set to zero. Connect your leads and start
    turning up the current limiter. You should see the current go up,
    and then as the short burns open, the current will drop. When that
    happens, reconnect the display and test it out. If you are lucky,
    the shorted bridge will now be open and your display will work. If
    it does not, then an internal trace may have burned open before the >>>> "short" and your display is not salvageable.

    --
    http://orcalcoast.com/


    That is a great idea.

    Thanks for the suggestion.


    This fix only works for displays that are not in-circuit! You need to
    unsolder the leads that have the short otherwise you may damage the
    driver IC/transistor(s). Or remove the at risk semiconductor(s) before
    attempting this...

    John :-#(#

    Thanks John.

    This is for one of the slaves that does not have any circuitry.  But
    your warning is important for those that may read this post.


    I find it never hurts to state the seemingly obvious - I know that
    people years from now will run across this series of posts. That thought
    is always in the background of my posts - trying to teach future enthusiasts!

    John :-#)#
    --
    (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
    John's Jukes Ltd.
    MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
    (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
    www.flippers.com
    "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
    Hey Lex,
    I just updated a system 3 shuffle alley with LED displays & I have 3 known good displays & the working master display.
    If you think any of this will help you I'd be happy to mail you what you need ?
    Pin-Del,
    --- Synchronet 3.17c-Win32 NewsLink 1.112
  • From LexingtonVAPin@lhammer610@yahoo.com to rec.games.pinball on Thursday, April 16, 2020 10:05:43
    From Newsgroup: rec.games.pinball

    On 4/15/20 5:48 PM, Pin Del wrote:
    On Tuesday, April 14, 2020 at 9:36:23 PM UTC-4, John Robertson wrote:
    On 2020/04/14 3:55 p.m., LexingtonVAPin wrote:
    On 4/14/20 4:15 PM, John Robertson wrote:
    On 2020/04/14 12:58 p.m., LexingtonVAPin wrote:
    On 4/12/20 7:23 PM, MAC in Indiana wrote:
    Remove the display and isolate the pins that are shorted together. >>>>>> If scraping with a dental tool does not clear the short, I have had >>>>>> some success with burning open a short using a lab supply and
    current control. Set the voltage to below the normal working voltage >>>>>> with your current limit set to zero. Connect your leads and start
    turning up the current limiter. You should see the current go up,
    and then as the short burns open, the current will drop. When that >>>>>> happens, reconnect the display and test it out. If you are lucky,
    the shorted bridge will now be open and your display will work. If >>>>>> it does not, then an internal trace may have burned open before the >>>>>> "short" and your display is not salvageable.

    --
    http://orcalcoast.com/


    That is a great idea.

    Thanks for the suggestion.


    This fix only works for displays that are not in-circuit! You need to
    unsolder the leads that have the short otherwise you may damage the
    driver IC/transistor(s). Or remove the at risk semiconductor(s) before >>>> attempting this...

    John :-#(#

    Thanks John.

    This is for one of the slaves that does not have any circuitry.  But
    your warning is important for those that may read this post.


    I find it never hurts to state the seemingly obvious - I know that
    people years from now will run across this series of posts. That thought
    is always in the background of my posts - trying to teach future
    enthusiasts!

    John :-#)#
    --
    (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
    John's Jukes Ltd.
    MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
    (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
    www.flippers.com
    "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

    Hey Lex,
    I just updated a system 3 shuffle alley with LED displays & I have 3 known good displays & the working master display.

    If you think any of this will help you I'd be happy to mail you what you need ?

    Pin-Del,


    Thanks Pin-Del.

    I just got the kit from Wolffpac. Am looking forward to re-living the Heathkit glory days.

    My local friend was searching for some. I will pass your message onto him.

    --
    http://orcalcoast.com/
    --- Synchronet 3.17c-Win32 NewsLink 1.112